Chile targets fast fashion waste with landmark desert cleanup plan – The Guardian

Chile’s Initiative to Address Textile Waste in the Atacama Desert

Background and Environmental Challenge

In the Atacama Desert, the driest non-polar region on Earth, large quantities of used clothing have accumulated, causing significant environmental degradation. The northern city of Iquique in Chile has become a focal point for this issue, with piles of second-hand garments, including nursing uniforms, shoes, work overalls, and fast fashion items, scattered across the desert sands and coastal plateaus.

Government Action and Policy Development

Chile’s government has taken a decisive step to combat this environmental crisis by including textiles as a “priority” category under its extended producer responsibility (EPR) law. This legal framework obliges importers to take responsibility for the waste generated by the thousands of tonnes of used clothing imported annually into the country.

• Importers must now report the volume of clothing brought into Chile.
• Additional regulations to support this law are forthcoming.
• A public policy focused on textiles and their role in the circular economy will be published.
• One key goal is the eradication of textile dumps in the Atacama Desert.

Textile Importation and Waste Statistics

Chile imports over 90% of the textiles sold domestically, making it the world’s fourth-largest importer of second-hand clothing. The government estimates that 123,000 tonnes of used clothing enter Chile annually, with the northern regions experiencing the most severe environmental impacts.

• Average textile consumption per person in Chile is approximately 32 kg.
• This consumption contributes to an estimated 572,000 tonnes of textile waste generated each year.

Textile Waste Management and Circular Economy Efforts

At the freeport in Iquique, large bales of clothing arrive duty-free daily and are sorted by a migrant workforce. The highest quality items are sold locally or sent to Santiago and even back to the United States for resale. Lower-quality garments circulate through resale markets in Alto Hospicio, while the least desirable items are often discarded in the desert or burned, causing pollution.

The government’s inclusion of textiles in the EPR law aims to shift the textile industry from a linear model of production, consumption, and disposal to a circular economy emphasizing repair, reuse, and recycling.

Statements from Key Stakeholders

• Beatriz O’Brien, National Coordinator for NGO Fashion Revolution: “This would spur a new consumer culture, as companies would be required to offer repair, reuse, and recycling services. It is a step toward a transition from a linear economy to a circular economy for textiles and clothing in the country.”
• Maisa Rojas, Chile’s Environment Minister: “The inclusion of textiles in the producer responsibility law will establish the obligations of producers, who will no longer be able to disregard the environmental impacts of unused textiles. The successful application of the law will allow us to address the lack of regulation for the industry, which has generated huge quantities of waste and affects the quality of life for people and the environment.”

Alignment with Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs)

SDG 12: Responsible Consumption and Production

Chile’s extended producer responsibility law for textiles directly supports SDG 12 by promoting sustainable consumption and production patterns. The law encourages producers and importers to take accountability for the entire lifecycle of textiles, fostering repair, reuse, and recycling initiatives.

SDG 13: Climate Action

By reducing textile waste and preventing the burning of discarded clothing, Chile’s policy contributes to lowering greenhouse gas emissions and air pollution, aligning with SDG 13’s climate action targets.

SDG 15: Life on Land

The eradication of textile dumps in the Atacama Desert will protect terrestrial ecosystems and biodiversity, supporting SDG 15 by preventing land degradation and pollution.

SDG 8: Decent Work and Economic Growth

The sorting and resale of textiles provide employment opportunities, particularly for migrant workers, contributing to inclusive economic growth and decent work as outlined in SDG 8.

SDG 11: Sustainable Cities and Communities

Efforts to manage textile waste and improve environmental quality in cities like Iquique and Alto Hospicio enhance the sustainability and livability of urban areas, in line with SDG 11.

Conclusion

Chile’s recent legislative advancements mark a significant move towards sustainable textile management, addressing critical environmental challenges in the Atacama Desert. By embedding textile waste into the extended producer responsibility framework and promoting circular economy principles, Chile is advancing multiple Sustainable Development Goals, fostering environmental protection, social inclusion, and economic sustainability.

1. Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) Addressed or Connected

1. SDG 12: Responsible Consumption and Production
   • The article discusses Chile’s efforts to manage textile waste through extended producer responsibility laws and promoting circular economy practices.
2. SDG 13: Climate Action
   • Reducing textile waste and promoting recycling can lower environmental pollution and greenhouse gas emissions.
3. SDG 15: Life on Land
   • The article highlights the environmental damage caused by textile dumps in the Atacama Desert, affecting terrestrial ecosystems.
4. SDG 11: Sustainable Cities and Communities
   • Addressing waste management in urban areas like Iquique and Alto Hospicio improves quality of life and environmental health.

2. Specific Targets Under Those SDGs Identified

1. SDG 12: Responsible Consumption and Production
   • Target 12.4: By 2030, achieve the environmentally sound management of chemicals and all wastes throughout their life cycle.
   • Target 12.5: By 2030, substantially reduce waste generation through prevention, reduction, recycling, and reuse.
2. SDG 13: Climate Action
   • Target 13.2: Integrate climate change measures into national policies, strategies, and planning.
3. SDG 15: Life on Land
   • Target 15.1: Ensure the conservation, restoration, and sustainable use of terrestrial and inland freshwater ecosystems.
4. SDG 11: Sustainable Cities and Communities
   • Target 11.6: Reduce the adverse per capita environmental impact of cities, including by paying special attention to air quality and waste management.

3. Indicators Mentioned or Implied to Measure Progress

1. Indicator for SDG 12.4 and 12.5:
   • Tonnes of textile waste generated annually (572,000 tonnes in Chile).
   • Amount of textiles imported (123,000 tonnes of used clothing per year).
   • Percentage of textiles imported versus locally produced (over 90% imported).
   • Number of producers/importers complying with extended producer responsibility reporting requirements.
2. Indicator for SDG 13.2:
   • Implementation status of national policies integrating climate action related to textile waste management.
3. Indicator for SDG 15.1:
   • Reduction or eradication of textile dumps in the Atacama Desert.
   • Quality of land and ecosystem health in affected desert areas.
4. Indicator for SDG 11.6:
   • Reduction in open burning of textile waste and associated air pollution (e.g., black smoke plumes).
   • Improvement in waste management practices in cities like Iquique and Alto Hospicio.

4. Table: SDGs, Targets and Indicators

Source: theguardian.com